And the road I was on when I took the photo above.
Tag Archives: Photographs
Leaving Truro was no better than Truro
Day 22 (I should have been doing this from the start)
In the more newly commercialized end of Truro is where I woke. Behind a dumpster belonging to Canadian Tire. With a Soybes? Grocery next door and a mcDs across the street for some quick wifi. After breakfast I was already on the 236 so I started West for the first time of this trip.
Hit the country soon and that’s where the hills and wind started. None of it was to my liking. After a few miles I came to the 215. I heard the 215 was better. Rather that the 236 hot really bad with the road conditions and traffic. It was a longer way around, along the bay to a small town of Brooklyn where the 236, that cuts straight the country, and 215 meet again but I figured it could be as nice at the 2 was on the North side of the Cobequid Bay.
215 it is then. Maybe there will be less hills.
Still heading West the wind did not change. And instead of going on and on. The wind was hellish. The hills were shitty and about 45km in it started pissing rain.
There were almost no place with services or shelter. The towns on the map were likely to NOT be a town at all. Instead a sign by the road with a name, like Moose Brook, and absolutely nothing else.
One good thing was in Noel I met a kid who saw me walking my bike to a table to rest. He yelled out “hey you got peanut butter, that’s cool, peanut butter is awesome” he and his buddy came over and asked some questions. They both had bikes too. Told me about biking to school in the winter on the hills. Liked my fenders and rang my bell. Told me about the hills if I took 354 South and the hills if I stayed on 215 West. The buddy asked my name. When I answered the first kid goes “no way! That’s my name too!”. He told me about his soccer finals matches. I think he said he got second. There seemed to be nothing in the area. I’d guess that every kid around would have to play to get a soccer game going. I wish I could have seen some soccer. I miss watching soccer in the park in Brooklyn. Before I left he showed me his neckless with soccer placing and team name. I don’t know why I didn’t take a photo. Because I didn’t now I’m sure it would have been the best photo of my trip.
On the road I had a short break from the rain. But not long. Then about , I don’t even know, 50, 60km more of hurricane rains. No place to stop. Out of water. All food under bags. Felt like shit and the hills and wind were still making me look weak.
I made to a gas station. I didn’t know where I was just riding till I got somewhere. Anywhere.
I wasn’t going anywhere else. Fortunately the owner was inside. Older man named Geery. Or maybe Gary and I heard him wrong. Said it’d be fine. So I did. My best luck came to me at the end of my day. I got to that store 10 before it closed. Very important for the gallon of water I bought. First time of trip. Made pasta before bed. But it also had stopped raining. I set up the tent on wet grass but under dry skies.
One funny thing on my way in the rain. On one little pull out and under a few trees was a man holding an umbrella. He wave me over and said “come take a break” I said what good will that do me? ( I’m creeping up a hill and soaked in pouring rain), “it’ll let up here in a bit” he said. All I could do was blurt out a “Ha” and shake my head. My thought was “I’ll do another 30km before it let’s up”
Now I’m not sure if that guy was real.
I did do another 30 before it let up. But in the end I ate well and slept well.
Leaving Sackville and into Nova Scotia
Ok right now I’m tented up at another church. This time in grass and on a Saturday night, that part is a first, trying my luck and hoping to be up early an get some distance tomorrow.
After laundry in Sackville I really had to pee so I went back to the cafe. And why not another coffee? Not long after I packed it up, getting it all buttoned down right in front of the cafe I over heard two ladies talking about touring, stuff about their own experienced. I just minded my own. Just as I grabbed my bike to roll then one started to talk to me. Basic things but two parts that stood out were after saying I was not going to do the Cabbot Trail because of the hill she said she had just done it and something like it would be a shame to miss it. I wasn’t real sure what she meant by how she said it. But the other thing was telling me to watch out for coyotes. Uh. She said some girl backpacking on a trail with food in her bag and maybe talking on her phone was attacked by a hungry coyote so watch out, have something to swing at one. This whole thing was holding me back from making tracks. Glad to get out of there. On the highway to Nova Scotia I started to bonk. Too much coffee and not enough oatmeal. I’d been putting off making oatmeal all day. I took the last N.B. exit, found a table in the sun, didn’t care, and made 3 pb and j on flour torts, soft taco style. And 3 more on the last of my Ancient Grains wheat bread. The last of my big bag of Sunchips, and last block of cheese from yesterday’s vege burgers.
While there I briefly met Ray a backpacker and hitchhikeing traveler. Offered him some food but he was good and walked away. Before he left I did ask for a photo and he was ok with that. I need go ask more people because I can think of at least ten photos of people I met I really wish I would have taken.
Refilled the H2O and on the road again to Nova Scotia. The first town was big enough and saw many “I’d camp right there” type places. But had to press on another 22km to Springhill, NS. Was going to make oatmeal so I stopped at a gas station on the outskirts for water but ended up buying a double scoop of blueberry-vanilla ice cream cone and a big thing of homemade strawberry-rhubarb jam. I don’t even need jelly right now but it looked so good. I should have bought a whole pie too, they were homemade and only $7. By time I rode up the hill into Springhill I just wanted to get to bed. Tented up. Wrote in notebook. Typed this to post later and that’s that. Just a 75km day. Tomorrow I’ll shoot for Truro, NS and hopefully go beyond that.
Today was the second time I did laundry in 20 days.
Things I wish I had: good but light long-sleeve (for when hoodie is too much to add to when not enough) not just yet but might want later thin long-johns (maybe not but I own some that are light and small when not on) and for sure two pair of merino underwear. Cotton ones are not that good for touring especially with my washing schedule. But I was forced to buy a 6 load zip-lock bag of laundry soap so I won’t want to carry that around very long, a week max.
Other things if I had money. New iPod w better camera, better looking images. And a solar charger so I could take more photos more often.
Stainless coffee mug with biner
I can eat oatmeal out if this too but it’s an extra H2O reserve when not toting coffee.
Also saves me from needing paper of plastic cups, ever. And it went over well in Machias at the Beehive. One less mug to be washed after 60 people eat and drink then leave dishes for whoever has to wash. Also they seemed to be running low on mugs. Said they were walking away and not coming back.
A roommate moved out and left this in the refrigerator, it lived there for another year before I officially adopted it.
Free and no idea where it was made.
Into Sackville N.B.
I woke up beside the Saint Joseph church. I had riden there after riding out of Moncton just before sunset.
Yesterday started up on a foggy vista inside the Fundy National Park. I was not wanting to make the decent into Alma after already riding over 150k so I was up top the last hill before hitting the coast. I rode into Alma right before low tide. Very good timing because I think I found the one place I had seen a photo showing the extreme tides. Might be the photo from wiki. Anyway I saw it at a good time. Boats sitting on the floor 20 feet below the docks height. Only to find out the town of Alma is on boil order for their water. I had to ride back up the hill to get clean water from the parks water system.
I spoke to one man at the general store. And after a Sticky Bun at the bakery and rolling out of town I seen him again outside his house. “just burning some trash”. He’d given me direction to Short Cut Road. To get back to the coast but avoid a big hill. It worked and after riding thru Fundy Park (nothing but hill after huge hill for about 20 miles) I did want to avoid hills. Very pretty ride. Little traffic. I caught up to a family of 3 touring from Saint John to Moncton. And as it turns out they knew my host Peter in St John too. After a talk I made my way ahead of them. And not long after I saw a freshly flipped car in a ditch. Might have been closer to that happening if we had not stopped to trade notes.
In Moncton I ate and walked thru main st to see a motorcycle show. Sort of stayed too long but on my last turn out of town was a burning old 70’s Camaro. Two tone blue and white. A blaze. I yelled to go to the gas station and get their fire extinguishers. They did not. The fire truck was there in a min.
I rode and rode to find a church. I stopped at a house two men were in a garage and gave me directions to St. Joseph church. Right at the ESSO go a mile or two. I though people spoke in km but they speak in miles.
So today, out of the church. Bask to the ESSO of snack and use toilet. Then down the road and met Wayne. Excited man in his 70’s. He had done some touring in Europe many years ago. Invited me to his house right next door. Drank some water and talked about Canada history.
Traded photos. And he gave me a “S” clip. Like double caribiner.
Into Sackville finally. Ok all is fine till I try to buy a coffee they don’t take credit. Got to the bank. Sat bank is closed. Use ATM. ATM does not take master card. In Canada the banks won’t do both visa and MC. one or other and both here are Visa. Well it turns out the coffee place will take US cash. And I got quarters to do laundry. But the place does not sell soap. Bought soap with my quarters at dollar store for $1.25. Then laundry needs a Loony and 2 Quarters to do wash. I was getting pissed. Just hot tired and late in the day. Nothing seemed to be right. My stuff was all over the place in the laundry and I’d need to get it all back together to walk around to try and change in for a loony. But right then a man offered to watch my stuff. “sorry I can’t leave my property, it’s all I have I have to keep it with me” he then offered to walk and get me a loony. I had him get two. He came back and I did my wash but it was good I got two because the kid next to me doing wash put money in a busted machine and I did not wash his clothes. He switched machines and I gave him my other loony SOS he could get a wash in too.
Drying now. Back on the road soon. With any luck I’ll be in Nova Scotia by tonight
The fuel tank is getting low
I was thinking just that
Self Portrait Saint John Mall
Standing in a corridor of the mall. I found an outlet near the Starbucks. Checking twitter a good friend asked for more photos. This is what I gave him.
Lots of photos on my camera but no way to post them w/o a computer and lots of time.
From US 1 onto NB 1
It was a late start, 11am and after breakfast I went straight to the boarder.
Customs gave me 6 months visitor status. I wish I would have taken a photo of the agent, she was pretty. In St. Steven the rain started and I geared up for it by covering my bags and putting on my rain gear. I stopped at the visitor center for some maps. None are very good but it’ll do. Switched my computer to km. And started riding in the rain. After a traffic circle I followed a couple turns onto the Canadian 1.
My whole day except for a few clicks in St George were on the one, much like yesterday and the US 1.
But today was quite different because on this side the 1 is a 4 lane divided highway vs a 2 lane state route in Maine. And very little of anything along the way. Hills trees and gentle curves in the path are all I saw. Maybe 1 or 2 sleepy exits in 45 km. And just that many over-passes. I stopped at both to hide from rain while I ate pb and j in the blowing mist of semi trucks.
Slowly approaching St George I figured that was enough. Some cheese and crackers at the SaveEasy. And a bench out front for well over an hour just watching it rain while I ate crackers and wrote in my note book.
Now camping in a simple town park. A gravel lot and not much more than a picnic table. But there is a dam of some sort right next to me, I’ll check it out tomorrow. I hear the falling of water and a passing car every now and then. I had a short break in the rain to leave the grocery and look around for a tent spot. But as I was setting up the rain came back.
I talked with two people today.
I’m lucky most everything is dry. Dry enough.
When I see banana peels laid so neatly on the shoulder of the road that I have to change my path a bit not to hit them, I can’t help but think there is another touring cyclist just a head of me. But I don’t recall seeing even one other cyclist the whole day. Maybe tomorrow will be different, they say the weather is to be nice the rest of the week. I hope.
Last Full Day on US 1
Last night, after a full day with the Beehive Collective, I had decided if the the weather man was right and there is rain in the morning I’d stay longer but if the morning was clear I’d stay for breakfast, say goodbyes and hit the road before noon.
I woke up to a dry tent and barely overcast skies.
I was up an hour before breakfast was served but by time I was all packed and made my way to the Grange the line was started. Oatmeal and cherries.
I had my bike with me so the ones I had sort of gotten to know knew I was about to leave. I would have liked to stay but I’m in travel mode. They all know what that’s like. A few last photos and a couple people asked for my info.
I wanted to get a photo of these four young kids who got in last night. They sat at the same table as me for breakfast but before I knew it they had left for their projects. I went to the house and found two and learned they were that much of a crew. They just drove up together. Anyway I took a nice shot of the two of them. I lost track of their names.
The very last thing was an official Bees fair-well. A few in the front yard waved handkerchiefs with many goodbyes. I rode down the hill to the 1.
I bought a loaf of bread, a small OJ and a few bananas at the gas station and made my way just after 11am
There was not much else today.
I ate about 6 times. Even stopped at a cafe for grilled cheese and fries. Now much happened there, the most excitement was a 50 states crossword on the placemat. I found Maine but could not find New York. Ohio was easy.
Some clouds the whole day. Never saw my shadow.
I did stop to talk to Gregory. A man hammering a roof onto a structure mention to be a bathroom/greenhouse over a septic tank. Lives half the year in India. Would much rather hitchhike than bike. Made scarecrows from 6 foot logs by hammering washers on for eyes and nose and dressing them in thrift store clothes. There were about 25 of them scattered about. Some in the weeds across the highway. “these ones don’t like those ones”
We talked for about 15 min. But he had work to do and I had miles to ride more before the rain started.
Not much else to Calias. Learned of a Walmart. Tented it there. Crossing the boarder in the morning if the rain clears. Raining as I set up the tent. Plain sight.
Thought I might switch to km on the cycle computer since I’ll be in Canada for a few weeks. But how?
Also thought to be clean shaven as I cross. But that’s not happening unless I shave in the Walmart bathroom in the morning. Na.
Would like to get a new, non broken screen, good battery having, slightly better camera equipped iPod touch and a solar charger. But no money for that stuff right now.
Also my 34″ Outliers are a size too big now. What happened??
I rode 64 miles today. Almost all of that was on US 1.
The Clark Perry House
With the Beehive
Waking up within the Beehive camp on a Sunday is probably the best timing I could have had. Breakfast was at 10 vs 8 during the week and the projects many are doing are on hold for a day. Leaving time to chill. It was not a difficult choice to take a rest day here. Someone made a small bit of eggs in the house before breakfast at The Grange. That’s where I ate dinner last night. I took a quick shower. Pancakes and greens for breakfast in a hall that fits 60. Then coffee and talk with too many to recite. But after that I washed dished for a while w 3 others out back in the sun.
Later, a walk to the store for a large yogurt and granola to share. Some painting of art at the craft house. The same place I met Kathy yesterday. A nap. A ride around town. Hearing talk of the rain that’s coming. A roll of portraits mixed with other photos on film. And a side run to Subway for a vege foot long. I feel like I can eat for 3 I’m so hungry. All the time. It’s 5:30pm now and all my things are in my tent out back so this is a rest day.
People keep asking how long I’m staying and what are my plans. I have no real answer but I think I’ll roll out tomorrow as long as it’s not pouring.
I did say that I’m the type of person that if in a new group of 50 and 49 were totally nice and fine with me and 1 was like -who is this and why are they here- I would not have stated this long. But everyone is very nice and I feel welcome.
Kind of wish I could stay a week and be here for the Black Fly Ball. They say over 1000 people will come and it’s a great time.
I hope no rain but if there is I could not be stuck in a better place.
Beyond the Busy Tourist Areas
I woke up on Thompson Island again and stopped in the visitor center to decide ferry or ride the 1. I’d have to book it 7 miles in 25 min to catch the 11:30 or kill time til the 2:pm. Looking on the map it would save me about 30 mile from where I stood but that’s not counting the 7 to get to the ferry. The ferry being a $25 ride from Bar Harbor to the East section on Acadia NP. I decided to ride. Stopping at the Walmart to stock up on many fruits.
Then miles of comparatively quiet 1 and 1A. I met a lady at a Gulf station as I was re-upping H2O. She gave me both her business cards. I thought I might get invited for a beer, she was on a beer run. As we talked about green and black tarps two other lightly loaded trailer toteing tourist rode by heading south. Did not stop. My new friend took my picture. And then I rode on. Many more miles of quiet.
My map of Maine is clearly paid for by a grocery called Hannafords bc there are icons in every town that has a store. Good for me because not all town on my map are towns at all. Machias was the next town looking worthy of a nights camp, to have a place to buy dinner and then breakfast. On my way in to town on a desolate 1A I saw a girl painting in a yard. I had to stop. From there I was sort of sucked into the prep for the Black Fly Ball. Dinner. Many introductions. Lots of friendly people and a safe place to camp in the huge contorted and very green backyard. Sharing it with about 20 other tents.
I passed on going to the river on the full moon because I figured it to be very cold to swim. Instead I walked my bike back to my tent. And walking through the yard I found a circle of people around a fire playing music and singing songs. I sat and listened for as long as they played. And then to bed.
My day was almost as lonely as any so far. Only talking to one person up until the evening but by talking to Kathy the painter I was taken in by 50 or so of the most welcoming people. It turned into a very good day. And in the small world that it is Sherry, who I know from pol0, is here.
A Day on Mount Desert Island
I woke up on the small island Thompson. I rode straight to the Acadia National Park visitor center and paid my $5 to bike around. That pass was never checked by any official. From there I rode straight to the Cadillac Mountain summit. There were many cars and a few bikers. I even passed a few on the way up. Walking around with just my camera, I had a couple recognize me and we chatted a bit about travel. Lunch of P B and J then a quick ride down to Bar Harbor for some chill time in the grass by the water and boats. Found a plug and wifi next to a light post.
Second lunch was vege patty sub from Subway. Think that was $8 w cookies and Dr. Pepper.
Sitting on a bench I met a local named Ebbin who gave me a tip about good roads to do a loop on the quiet side of the island. And that’s what I did. And that’s how I racked up 64.8 miles for the day by time j got back to the place I woke up, to camp there again.
I was eating my pasta dinner by the side of the road next to a trail head, a couple in a BMW wagon parked beside me. Both were on their iPhones figuring out a place to eat. I could hear their conversation, she was looking for one place and he was to look up another. They must have figured it out because about two min later they speed off. Probably to walk into a place 5 min before they close.
After i packed up and got back to biking to my camp spot I kept thinking about how lonely eating by the side of the road, biking in the dark and solo camping can be. The reverse is that even if the fun I’m having is balanced by the total absence of finer things, like affection, or daily showers, or eating in-doors and with company I know that not all of those would happen if I was still living the non-nomadic life. With the options I have I think I chose the right path, at least for the next few weeks.
From Cadillac Mountain
A good day. It just so happened that I hit 15.30 miles for the day right as I hit 1530ft summit of this mountain famous for it’s sunrise. I think it should be famous for it’s smooth roads.
I might rather be here in a non weekend day. The cars lined the road as I made my way down just after 12 noon. As I write I’m sitting in a bay side park in Bar Harbor watching boats and yachts do their thing in the water.
Beautiful day.
Cannondale Rear Panniers
Late 90’s Cannondale Overland panniers.
I bought these over quite a few years ago. Not water proof but breath well dry fast and don’t stink. Four tours these have seen. Going strong. 3 outside zippered pockets, 1 mesh pouch and the large main compartment on each side.
I bought these at a local bike shop in Ohio. Think I paid $170 for the pair.
Hand made in USA.
6/14 edit: These have seen better days. Sun faded, weakened stitching, torn edges and beat up zippers. I’m going to try to sew new bags and re-use the inner frames and hardware.